
Virginia Willis’ book Bon Appetit, Y'all: Recipes and Stories from Three Generations of Southern Cooking
appeared in 2008, and her new book Basic to Brilliant, Y'all: 150 Refined Southern Recipes and Ways to Dress Them Up for Company
will be on shelves next month. A graduate of L'Academie de Cuisine and Ecole de Cuisine LaVarenne, Willis’ wide and varied food career started in Atlanta as an apprentice to Nathalie Dupree. She worked with Dupree on four PBS series and cookbooks, including the James Beard award-winning Comfortable Entertaining
. She also spent several years as an editorial assistant with culinary authority Anne Willan on various projects including Cook It Right
. Willis honed her attention to detail as the Kitchen Director for Martha Stewart Living Television where she supervised the food segments for the Emmy-award winning television show. As Executive Producer for Epicurious on The Discovery Channel, she traveled the world taping fantastic stories about food. You can find her product line My Southern Pantry on her site and follow her blog for great recipes and stories. She currently has a proposed TV series Starting from Scratch as well. I managed to steal a moment from her busy schedule to ask what are you reading? Virginia:1491
- about life before Columbus --I started reading this because my friend, Chef Deb Snow owner of the Blue Heron, told me about it. A lot of this book is not about food so far, but so much of it in terms of culture, politics, and anthropology does involve food. The most intriguing parts of the book are about corn and other vegetables from South America vs those from Europe. I've learned from this book that old world vs new world doesn't really work anymore. That kind of language is indicative of prejudice. The "new world" had been a world for at least as long as the "old world." I've purchased, but not yet started Tomatoland
(by Barry Estabrook). Also on my bedside table:Good Fish
(by Becky Selengut) Beautiful, beautiful book about sustainable seafood of the Pacific. Sustainable seafood is a passion and a cause for me. I was designated a seafood ambassador with Seafood Watch this year. I am thrilled to be a small part of a greater cause for improving the situation and educating readers about why sustainable seafood is so important. Ideas in Food
(by Aki Kamozawa and H. Alexander Talbot) I mostly shy away from molecular gastronomy, but I am somewhat curious about it. And, for those folks completely dragging their heels, my question is would you prefer calves hooves instead of gelatin sheets? As cooks, as people, we should always strive to learn and grow. Speaking of...The Spirituality of Imperfection
(by Ernest Kurtz and Katherine Ketcham) As I grow older I find it increasingly necessary to find more balance and focus. One practice I have returned to doing is saying a prayer of thanks before eating a meal. Even if someone has an issue with traditional religion, I think it is important to take a moment. To seriously, just take a moment in your day out of this busy, hectic world we occupy. In that moment I think it is important to give thanks for the food one is about to receive, the hands that put it in front of you, and the hands that grew or harvested the food. It takes a lot of work to get that food on your plate.
As Always, Julia: The Letters of Julia Child and Avis DeVoto
I was fortunate enough to spend time with Julia Child when I lived and worked in France. It's a real pleasure to see behind the scenes of the making of one of the greatest culinary educators and culinary icons of our time. Thank you for participating, Virginia. Check back to see who answers the question next time and what other books are recommended.Previous WAYR posts:Jaden HairMichael RuhlmanMonica BhideMichael NatkinSara RoahenAndrea NguyenDavid LebovitzRick BaylessTara Austen WeaverMollie KatzenDeborah MadisonSoup PeddlerSara Kate Gillingham-RyanRobb WalshKim SeversonDavid LeiteDan LepardCarolyn JungJoan NathanMelissa ClarkDianne JacobZoë FrancoisYotam OttolenghiLucinda Scala QuinnBarbara LynchAddie BroylesCheryl TanJoanne ChangKim BoyceBarry EstabrookGesine Bullock-Prado

Gesine Bullock-Prado followed a dream and turned her passion for baking into a business. The story of how she made a big change in her life, going from heading up her sister Sandra’s production company in Hollywood to operating a baking and confectionery shop in Vermont, was told in her book My Life from Scratch
previously titled Confections of a Closet Master Baker
. Her latest book, Sugar Baby
, is a recipe book for cooking with sugar. The stages of cooked sugar, going from thread stage to hard-crack and the stages in between, are explained with a chapter and delectable recipes for each. There’s rock candy, a few variations on fudge, fruit gummis, taffy, fleur de sel caramels, cotton candy, and several more ideas I can’t wait to try. And, at the end of the book, there’s a chapter for combining different techniques and components like topping the meringues in an ile flottant with heart-shaped pralines. A book full of sugar treats is naturally fun to peruse, but this one is also written in a way that entertainingly conveys the details and instructions for sugar work. You can catch Gesine on the Today show on June 28th when she’ll be demonstrating some patriotic treats in time for the fourth of July, and she’s already busy at work on her next book, Pie it Forward, which will be released next April. I had a few questions for Gesine about sugar work, treats in Austin, and books, and she was kind enough to answer:I live in Austin, so I wanted to ask you about Walton's Fancy and Staple. Were you involved in developing the bakery menu?I developed the pastry menu and shared many recipes that I developed for my pastry shop in Vermont, Gesine Confectionary, including the ginger cookies (which are in Sugar Baby), chocolate mousse towers (also in Sugar Baby) fruit mousses (also in Sugar Baby), golden eggs (in my first book) and parisian macarons, among other things.Any plans to open a Gesine Confectionary shop in Austin?I don't plan on opening my own shop in Austin. My pastry life is spent writing cookbooks, teaching, and operating my mail order business.Speaking of Austin, I have a question about making taffy. You shared a story in Sugar Baby about your grandmother’s fun taffy pulling parties, and I’d really like to try to do this. Do I need to wait for an elusive non-humid day in Austin? Or, any tips for humidity and taffy?It's the same for any sugar work, humidity plays a large part in success or failure. The book is divided into stages of "heat." As sugar gets hotter, it sloughs off moisture, and the more moisture that's sloughed off, the hotter it gets, the more concentrated the sugar becomes and the harder the solution becomes. Taffy falls in the firm/hard ball range. The issue with humidity is that once you get your sugar to temperature and you begin to work with it, the moisture in the air decides to settle in and wreak havoc. You've gone to all the trouble to get rid of moisture and there it is, in the air, just waiting to creep back into the sugar and make it all kinds of soft and soggy. I demo the taffies in the book at pretty much every signing, even in Austin. It's always spot on but I'm just waiting for summer to really hit its stride and mess up all sugar work entirely.Making rock candy looks like such an interesting process. How did you learn to do it?I made rock candy as a child in elementary school. Through the years, as I've actually studied sugar work, I was able to "troubleshoot" the process. I have even more tips on the sugarbabycookbook.com blog. For something so simple, it's alarming how much can go wonky. The process is right up there with poking an avocado seed with tooth pics and watching it sprout (in about a year!). In Europe, rock sugar is often presented in a bowl with a tea service instead of granulated sugar and is quite common to make.And, one more question. I have to ask, what are you reading?Strangely, Born to Run
had an impact on me as far as my bread baking is concerned. I'm a marathon runner and am always looking for a way to incorporate baking into my training and there are ideas and foods mentioned in the book that I've brought into my baking world to help with carbo loading and long runs. Tina Fey's Bossy Pants
brought back my years at UVA and the fabulous crud we'd eat late night. It led to me making homemade donuts, grilling them and making an ice cream sandwich a la our corner diner, The Spot's "grillswith." It brought me back to my days of debauchery. Thomas Keller's The French Laundry Cookbook
and Ad Hoc at Home
are perennial favorites and always good for inspiration. In Late Winter We Ate Pears
by Deirdre Heekin and Caleb Barber: It's beautifully done, this gem of a cookbook. But they're locals. They have a wonderful restaurant, Pane e Salute in Woodstock, VT that's unbelievable. They walk the walk. Good Meat
by Deborah Krasner. It's THE guide to sourcing sustainable meat AND it's gorgeous, respectful and informative. Bread
by Jeffrey Hamelman. I teach a few times a year at King Arthur Flour, I love their flour, I live just five minutes away from their headquarters and the DANGEROUS Baker's store, so I have a soft spot for everything associated with it. Jeffrey Hamelman is KAF's resident grand poobah of levain; the GURU of bread. We're so lucky to have the reigning king of bread in our hood. He won't steer you wrong.Thank you for participating, Gesine. Check back to see who answers the question next time and what other books are recommended.Previous WAYR posts:Jaden HairMichael RuhlmanMonica BhideMichael NatkinSara RoahenAndrea NguyenDavid LebovitzRick BaylessTara Austen WeaverMollie KatzenDeborah MadisonSoup PeddlerSara Kate Gillingham-RyanRobb WalshKim SeversonDavid LeiteDan LepardCarolyn JungJoan NathanMelissa ClarkDianne JacobZoë FrancoisYotam OttolenghiLucinda Scala QuinnBarbara LynchAddie BroylesCheryl TanJoanne ChangKim BoyceBarry Estabrook
Earlier this month, the James Beard Foundation Award winners were announced, and Barry Estabrook was the winner in the Individual Food Blog category. On his blog, Politics of the Plate, you’ll always find interesting information about how food is produced and the myriad issues related to its production. This was not Barry’s first James Beard Award. In 2010, he was awarded for his Gourmet feature about tomato growing and associated labor abuses in Florida. That story has led to his upcoming book Tomatoland
, to be released in June, which expands on the issue of industrial agriculture and the true costs of growing tomatoes as we do now. He was formerly a contributing editor at Gourmet for eight years and now serves on the advisory board of Gastronomica, The Journal of Food and Culture, and has written for The New York Times, The Washington Post, TheAtlantic.com, MarkBittman.com, Saveur, and Men’s Health. I knew I’d hear about some interesting books when I asked, what are you reading?Barry:I got a Kindle for my birthday recently and immediately down loaded Upton Sinclair’s 1906 muckraking masterpiece The Jungle
(for free, no less!). It had been decades since I’d read the novel. Having recently reported on the exploitation of workers in Florida’s tomato industry for my book, Tomatoland
, I was appalled how many of the abuses Sinclair describes still exist today: below-poverty wages, exploitive slumlords and merchants, crooked bosses, and multimillionaire owners who live far from the conditions they profit from so handsomely. The extremely conservative anti-union movement gives me concern that things will only grow worse. 
I live with Rux Martin, who runs the cookery publishing program at Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, so needless to say, our house is overflowing with cookbooks. They line the walls floor-to-ceiling in our sunroom, overflow the shelves in the kitchen, and rise in a tottering tower on a counter. There are hundreds of seafood recipes within their covers—most of which call for species that environmentally conscious cooks avoid. What a relief it was, then, to get a copy of Barton Seaver’s For Cod and Country: Simple. Delicious. Sustainable.
The book is full of color photographs, both evocative and step-by-step how-to. The recipes are imaginative. And the ingredients are seasonable and sustainable.Thank you for participating, Barry. Check back to see who answers the question next time and what other books are recommended.Previous WAYR posts:Jaden HairMichael RuhlmanMonica BhideMichael NatkinSara RoahenAndrea NguyenDavid LebovitzRick BaylessTara Austen WeaverMollie KatzenDeborah MadisonSoup PeddlerSara Kate Gillingham-RyanRobb WalshKim SeversonDavid LeiteDan LepardCarolyn JungJoan NathanMelissa ClarkDianne JacobZoë FrancoisYotam OttolenghiLucinda Scala QuinnBarbara LynchAddie BroylesCheryl TanJoanne ChangKim Boyce