Showing posts with label souffle. Show all posts
Showing posts with label souffle. Show all posts

Thursday, April 9, 2009

Chilled Lemon Souffles

The dessert of the meal I’ve been describing this week was individual chilled lemon souffles, and this comes from a delightful, little book. Eggs by Michel Roux is smaller in size than other books, but in it you’ll find perfected techniques for cooking eggs and a wealth of ideas for egg dishes. Each section is devoted to a way of cooking eggs. The steps involved in the basic preparation are clearly described with instructions and photos, and then several variations on dishes using that preparation are presented. I’m looking forward to trying crunchy fried eggs which is a method of poaching in hot oil. The variations include crunchy fried eggs on darphin potatoes with spinach and crunchy fried eggs on dandelion salad. And, there’s so much more. Classic sauces like hollandaise, mornay, and sabayon are described. There are crepes both savory and sweet, quiches, omelets including rolled Thai varieties, custards, baked eggs, and hard-cooked eggs stuffed with mussels. I really like this book.

While so many dishes jumped out at me as I read this book, the chilled lemon souffle was the first thing I made because it worked well with my plans for the party. This is not a cooked souffle. The ingredients are simply folded together, transferred to serving dishes, and chilled. I wanted to use the freshest eggs I could find, so I headed straight to the farmers’ market. Milagro farms had some beauties last weekend, and I talked with the farmer about the chickens that laid them. They have several varieties of chickens which are allowed to roam free, have a moveable coop so their domain can be moved about the farm, and they’re fed the organic vegetables grown at the farm. The dozen eggs I bought included some brown, some cream-colored, and some pale blue eggs. They were perfectly fresh and delicious. For the souffles, six eggs were separated. The yolks were whisked with sugar and lemon zest. Gelatin sheets were softened in water, the water was squeezed from them, and then they were dissolved in warm lemon juice. That lemon juice was then whisked into the egg yolk mixture. Cream was whipped to a ribbon consistency and folded into the yolk mixture. Egg whites were whisked to soft peaks with some sugar, and then they were folded into the main mixture.

In the book, this is presented as one large souffle with a ring of lemon slices around the top and sliced almonds in the center. I decided to serve it in individual portions instead. So, I used six ramekins and wrapped each of them with parchment paper to support the souffle as it was spooned into each cup and above each rim. The ramekins were chilled for about five hours. Thinly sliced lemon was gently cooked in sugar syrup for a couple of minutes and allowed to cool. I served each souffle with a few lemon slices and a sprinkling of sliced almonds. I was pretty sure this was going to be an enjoyable dessert, but I was surprised by Kurt’s reaction. I had imagined he would tolerate the lemon dessert and find it ok, but he was actually just as thrilled with it as I was. The texture was like clouds as it was set just enough to hold its shape, and the flavor was lovely and lemony without being too assertive. It wasn’t too rich or too filling, and it was a nice way to end the meal.


Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Grits, Cheese, Corn, and Onion Souffles

Last weekend, I tried a few new and different dishes, and all of them had one thing in common. Everything I prepared was incredibly simple and shockingly good given the scant active time involved. Souffles, so dramatic in appearance but simple to create, clearly fit this description. This recipe from Bon Appetit’s June issue was the main dish of our Sunday brunch.

After making corn cream and macque choux the night before, I had some remaining fresh corn. It just seemed like a perfect fit to include it in the grits soufflés. And, it was. The airy egg texture was contrasted by a fresh burst of corn. I didn’t have any leeks, but the 3/4 c yellow onion plus green onions provided enough flavor from the allium family. The pepper Monterey Jack was a nice addition, and more heat from fresh jalapenos would be a consideration in the future. I garnished the finished soufflés with chopped cilantro.

When dishes require a lot of chopping, marinating, blanching, basting, waiting, mixing, turning, slicing, etc., you feel like you really earned the right to a delicious meal. As you gladly get to finally sit and taste, you think, yes, this was worth all of that. Last weekend, I felt almost guilty that I wasn’t even a little fatigued after preparing these meals. It was like some magic happened that made amazing meals come out of nowhere. I sat, ate, and was delighted to enjoy really great, nearly effortless food.
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